Seville is a fine place to sample the rich variety of Andalusian cuisine. Look for cold vegetable soups, of which gazpacho is only the most famous, and seafood, especially in fried dishes. Stews also play a prominent role, with oxtail being a consistent favorite. Here are four Seville restaurants I tried on a recent visit.
On a lively street just behind the Cathedral, this small, stylish restaurant draws those who are looking for modern takes on regional cooking. If the weather permits, the best place to sit is outside, but we were quite happy to perch at the bar. We began with rich, creamy gazpacho (unlike the crunchy version we tend to make at home), which was tangy with the acid of superb local tomatoes. Our favorite main course was huevos a la flamenca, a spicy dish of shrimp, beans and jamón Ibérico, topped by an egg.
Calle Mateos Gago 8. Tel. (34) 95-421-5878.
One day we decided we just wanted a simple tapas meal. Sitting at the bar, we enjoyed a generous plate of paper-thin slices of jamón Ibérico, aged manchego cheese and crisp potato croquettes. These proved the perfect foil for glasses of chilled Manzanilla. Bodeguitas Antonio Romero is famous for its delicious montadito de pringá, a dish of slow-cooked pork, chorizo and black pudding served on a toasted bun. Also look for the pigs’ cheeks, grilled salt cod, and spinach with garbanzo beans and braised artichokes.
Bodeguitas Antonio Romero
Calle Antonia Díaz 19. Tel. (34) 95-422-3939.
Set on a little side street, Casa Robles has an appealing array of chairs and tables out front. Inside is a wonderful collection of aged hams. We began with a plate of rosy jamón Serrano, followed by a salad of fresh greens and anchovies. The latter cleared our palates for an assortment of fried seafood. Crisp and without a hint of grease, this provided a testament to the Sevillanos’ skill in the art of frying.
Calle Alvarez Quintero 58. Tel. (34) 95-421-3150.
Many people might prefer the main dining room on the ground floor of this 17th-century house, with its proximity to the lively tapas bar, but we were very happy at a tranquil table on the second floor. There we began with a plate of briny olives, scrambled eggs with codfish, and exceptional fried eggplants stuffed with shrimp. These were followed by a casserole of pigs’ cheeks, and swordfish in a sherry sauce.
Calle Gamazo 2. Tel. (34) 95-421-3049